Ballard, Seattle, WA – Marriage of brick road boutique and maritime with a Nordic flair
“Seatown” Seattle begs to be boated. The iconic Space Needle accented skyline and boardwalk Ferris wheel beckon to all plying Puget Sound waters from the wheelhouse of an Alaska-bound passagemaking trawler, the deck of a Washington state ferry, and all watercraft in-between. But the Seattle neighborhood with both the largest public marina and most freshwater marinas isn’t downtown—it’s uptown. Ballard’s pull got me pretty good. I’ve been living here as a maritime writer and sailboat owner for the last few years.
Ballard with its mix of plentiful moorage and fun things to do is a boaters’ haven. Throw in one of the city’s notable beaches, Golden Gardens, and resistance becomes futile. Whenever one feels the need to take a break from the water, there are enough restaurants, bars, a movie theater, dive bars, live music, parks, and more to cover most if not all tastes.
The cultural foundation of the neighborhood is decidedly Nordic thanks to a legacy of Norwegian immigrants who contributed to much of the local maritime industry. Seattle’s sister city of Bergen, Norway is fueled by the Ballard connection and occasionally Nordic royalty inevitably visit Ballard when passing through. The Sons of Norway lodge is quite active. It feels very much alive versus a nostalgic shadow of the zeitgeist.
You might notice that Ballard is home to two different worlds: the industrial maritime businesses along the water and the boutique district running parallel. This is by design and local ordinance. The Pacific Fisherman (PacFish to locals) commercial shipyard where Deadliest Catch crabbing vessels frequent for seasonal maintenance looms within view of El Ocho, a seductive little Spanish tapas bar with great sangria. The synthesis of these two realms is what makes Ballard, Ballard.
Marina Situation
Most visiting boaters enjoying Puget Sound will naturally gravitate to the large public Shilshole Bay Marina. Not only does this 1,400-slip marina have it all (fuel dock with small chandlery, coffeeshop, etc.) but it’s a perfect launchpad for both open saltwater and inland into Seattle. They’ve got slips up to 100’. Nearby amenities include a public boat ramp, Seaview Boat Yard, and the Corinthian Yacht Club facility. A massive statue of Leif Erickson stands tall watching over it all. Bottom line, this is North Seattle’s big recreational boat hub on Puget Sound.
Shilshole Bay Marina:
7001 Seaview Avenue Northwest, Suite 100, Seattle, WA 98117
Latitude and Longitude: 47° 40′ 39″ N, 122° 24′ 39″ W
Office Hours: Monday – Saturday, 8:00am – 4:30pm (Staff on-site 24 hours)
Email: sbm@portseattle.org
Phone: 206-787-3006
Phone: 206-601-4089 (24 hour)
The Ballard marina situation doesn’t end there as there are more marinas after one transits the locks onto the Salmon Bay freshwater side. The string of Ballard waterfront marinas on the north shore of Salmon Bay are smaller legacy mom-and-pop businesses that have been around for years: McGinnis Marina, Stimson Marina, Sagstad Marina, and Ballard Mill Marina. These marinas tucked on the waterfront maritime industrial stretch of Ballard tend to have basic amenities and are catered toward long-term residents more than transient visitors. If you’re staying in the area for a while, the freshwater can be good for the hull and you might find a slip cheaper than Shilshole Bay Marina. You will also be more centrally located to Ballard Ave fun and are adjacent maritime amenities like CSR Boat Yard and West Marine. You won’t get the stunning sunsets over the Olympic mountains that Shilshole offers, and you will have to transit the locks to return to Puget Sound which can be a hassle, but you will feel much more a part of the town. Everything is a tradeoff, isn’t it?
While not technically in Ballard, the south shore of Salmon Bay should also be noted. Salmon Bay Marine Center is both a marina for large yachts and a marine business hub that caters to sizeable recreational boats. The iconic Fishermen’s Terminal is also on that side of Salmon Bay near the Ballard Bridge. While commercial vessel focused, the marina does lease slips to recreational boats and is a resource. Some commercial fishermen sell their fish straight from the docks to buyers—like Loki Fish Co.’s boats F/V Lokiand F/V Njord and F/V St. Jude.
Eats and Drinks in Ballard
Succinctly summarizing Ballard’s culinary scene in this space is impossible. But, in accordance with the Best4Boats spirit, we’ll zoom in on options that are both uniquely Ballard and accessible to those who may be boat bound.
When it comes to food near Shilshole Bay Marina, I don’t think you can beat Un Bien. The humble Caribbean restaurant has a long menu but is especially known for its roast pork sandwich. Be warned, this is a two-handed drippy sandwich that’s too messy to walk with. My saliva glands are aching just thinking about it. For a sit-down establishment, you can’t beat Ray’s Boathouse at sunset. The varied menu has a focus on Pacific Northwest ingredients. Downstairs is fine dining, but the bar upstairs has a big deck looking over the water with a limited and more reasonably priced café menu to go along with a variety of beverages.
The food and drink scene is mostly concentrated between the Ballard Locks and the Ballard Bridge with the highest density by far on the aforementioned Ballard Ave drag. For upscale dining, I’d go with Asadero Mexican steakhouse for turf and Walrus & the Carpenter for surf. Asadero regularly wins “best steak in Seattle” with the local rags. The steakhouse has prime, angus, and wagyu specialties. The Walrus & The Carpenter is a small plate, local seafood and oyster bar icon everyone should try once. Ballard mysteriously has about half a dozen sushi restaurants that range from the awesome bang-for-buck Sam’s Sushi Bar & Grill to the more high-end Moshi Moshi Sushi & Izakaya or Shiku Sushi.
For a more buttoned-down experience, Ballard has several truly wonderful divey pubs. The Kangaroo & Kiwi is housed in a retired historic Carnegie library and has a great outdoor patio. The Ballard Smoke Shop has rich commercial fishing roots and about 20 pinball machines. The Sloop near the Ballard Locks has free pool and its own yacht club. Odds are good you’ll run into a crew of sailors with “Slooper sized” steins of Rainier fresh from rounding the buoys of a regatta. Cap the night off with some molten chocolatey goodness from Ballard Hot Cakes for dessert. You earned it.
Ballard TO-DOS
Sound-side: Shilshole and Golden Gardens
Shilshole Bay Marina is huge. We’re talking about an entire mile along the water huge. If one hops off his or her boat and strolls northward, Golden Gardens’ sandy beach is the reward beyond the inflatable waving hot dog man of Little Coney soda fountain, public Eddie Vine Boat Ramp, and fishing pier. The beach is very much a commons and ideal for a cool dip or picnic. There are a very limited number of firepits and Seattle Parks and Recreation (SPR) has gotten strict in recent years about closing the whole place down after dark. Regardless, the Olympic Mountains sunset view is in the running for the best in town. There’s a winding trail up the bluff into the forest. Halfway up the hill there is an off-leash area for the pooch via a set of calve burning stairs.
If you go southward from the marina, you’re on a peaceful mileish-long path along NW 54th St. and the water to the locks. There’s not many specific sights to see here other than the scenery up until the railroad Salmon Bay Bridge. This is also a terminus of the Burke-Gillman Bicycle Trial. The mostly designated-lane, 40-mile trail goes all the way from Ballard to the wineries of Woodinville near Lake Washington.
The Ballard Locks
When folks say “The Ballard Locks” they are typically referring to both the Hiram Chittenden Locks (the actual maritime traffic structure) and the Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Garden (the public green space around the structure). The park and levy combine into what most locals simply call the Ballard Locks. From the shore, the Ballard Locks are a beautiful green park and footbridge to the Magnolia neighborhood to the south. The salmon ladders are worth checking out during the months of June through November with the runs of the different species peaking at different times. Essentially a series of artificial waterfalls, the ladder gives the migrating hatchery fish a waterway through which to bypass the locks. I can watch those beautiful silver beasties swimming past in the viewing window for hours. Seals, sea lions, and bald eagles follow the fish.
From the water, transiting the US Army Corps of Engineers-operated locks can be a hassle. There are two locks, big and small, that differ in their mooring methods. The small lock has a floating platform that rises and falls with the water level and ergo the boats. Transiting here is simply a matter of cleating off to wherever the attendants direct you. The big lock demands lines of at least 50’ with 12” eyes that skippers must tend to as the water rises or falls along the concrete wall. Having extra beefy fenders and a crewmember or two is highly recommended, borderline mandatory. Skippers may instead be instructed to tie alongside other boats. I could write a whole step-by-step article about how to transit the Ballard Locks but that resource is available. If you do plan to transit the locks I recommended you look up the full official instructions online (watching the official video is a good resource too). Checking the website is always a good idea to see if both locks are open or if one is closed for maintenance. I’ve gotten through the Ballard Locks effortlessly as the only boat in sight and also been in a two-hour lineup jammed in there with a bunch of antsy boaters while hundreds of tourists watch the drama like reality television.
The locks make Ballard a portal of sorts, especially in the summer for local rituals aquatic like the Duck Dodge casual sailing regattas, Opening Day celebration with crew races on the Montlake Cut, and Seafair with its boats-only log boom from which to fully enjoy hydroplane races and low flying Blue Angels.
Market Street Action
The blocks from roughly the Ballard Locks to Bergen Square are jammed full of activities. Rock climbers will appreciate Edgeworks Climbing Seattle, a climbing gym with outdoor routes right off the sidewalk. The National Nordic Museum reopened in its new massive spot and has been a huge success. The large museum is dedicated to presenting the art and culture of the five Nordic countries: Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden. There is also a café and large stage venue. Ballard has deep roots to these nations, specifically Norway, due to the high number of Norwegians who historically called Ballard home. The legacy of these immigrants is etched into Ballard’s bones via the maritime and fishing industry. Ballard’s Norwegian Constitution Day (Syttende Mai, May 17th) parade is considered the largest outside of Norway.
Ballard Ave
Ballard Ave generally refers to the blocks centered around the historic Ballard Ave NW stretch from NW Market St. to the Ballard Bridge/15th Ave NW. The stroll, much of it upon old brick road, is a dreamy, strung light illuminated mix of shopfronts and eateries. The Majestic Bay three-screen movie theater is a charmer and has $6 Tuesday showings. Live music venues include the Sunset Tavern, Tractor Tavern, and the Pono Ranch. There are high end shopping opportunities galore: art galleries, clothing, souvenirs and gifts, and more.
The quintessential Ballard Ave experience is probably the Ballard Farmer’s Market that occurs every Sunday of the year from 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM. It’s got it all from local fisherfolk direct-to-consumer selling their albacore tuna to pancake mix-homemade sausage corndogs with maple syrup (they’re amazing!). Fresh produce. Handcrafted goat milk soap. Hipster poets for hire with typewriters. Just walking around and soaking it in is half the fun.
Another Ballard event of note, besides the aforementioned Syttende Mai, is Ballard SeafoodFest. What started decades ago as a fisherman hosted salmon BBQ for the public has morphed into a giant July block party complete with big corporate sponsors. A live music stage and pedestrian only zone takes up basically the whole of Ballard Ave for three full days.
Fremont East, Downtown South
Visitors can use Ballard as a springboard to explore other parts of Seattle. Due east is the Fremont neighborhood. Like Ballard, the central blocks of artsy Fremont are jammed with restaurants, bars, live music venues, and things to do. An iconic troll statue crushing a VW beetle in his hand lives under the Fremont Bridge and makes an interesting photo op stop. It’s not really possible to access Fremont by boat, because the canal is narrow there but the neighborhood is along the waterway until it opens up into nearby Lake Union. Many locals spend their days on the lake or lounging in Gasworks Park soaking in summer sun in the middle of the city.
When it comes to Ballard, everyone gets to be a little Viking. Tie off the dock lines and stay a while—no pillaging required. Life may never be perfect, but wiling away a carefree morning, afternoon, and evening in Ballard can get pretty close.
