South Puget Sound: City Fun, Country Peace
When one hears “Puget Sound boating”, most folks will immediately think of the northerly San Juan Islands. Who can blame them? The charismatic San Juans have the pull for visitors of all kinds for good reason. But south of Seattle exists a notable, often overlooked cruising gem waterway that offers both the allure of urban centers and forested, rural islands. I’m talking about the twisty, glacially carved arms of Puget Sound’s South Sound that on the chart resemble the giant Pacific octopus that call these green waters home.
It’s easy to underestimate South Sound, but from Seattle the waters extend over 50 nautical miles south-southwest and are home to many islands. This is a place of local secrets and little anchorages you didn’t know existed. Sometimes you look up from the helm and you might as well be in the San Juans or British Columbia—all within relative stone’s throw of some charming dockside eatery or notable museum. If you ever get the chance, cast off the dock lines and head southward for a change. What you find may surprise you.
TO-DOS
Seattle
One really ought to include Seattle in any sane discussion about boating in South Sound. The iconic metropolis serves as a northern marker of these waters. A stop in centrally located Bell Habor for an afternoon or overnight is a slam dunk for urban fun. You’re literally on the boardwalk with a 10- – 15-minute walk from Pike’s Place Market, the newly expanded Seattle Aquarium, and countless other options catered to just about any interests. Heads up, you may not want to wander after dark too far into Belltown, a nearbyneighborhood as nightclubs can create a raucous street scene. But the high traffic areas around the marina are world-class tourist spots for a reason. You can also easily access Safeco Field or Century Link from the marina to watch a baseball or NFL game. Enjoy!
One word of caution for those helming, the massive Washington state ferries have a cruise speed of around 17 knots and run routes from the downtown terminal. These huge metal hulks must be respected—don’t try any “right of way” games please. Most of the effort to avoid these guys is simply to stay clear of their routes and cross promptly when necessary. They also can throw a considerable wake so keep an eye out for it.
Blake Island and Vashon Island’s Quartermaster Harbor
A skipper heading southward from Seattle will notice two islands early on in the transit: the small Blake Island and large Vashon Island. Blake Island is a boat friendly state park with trails, mooring balls, campsites, and small marina. Check out the park’s website for more information. Blake Island is a classic local getaway for boaters for good reason.
Vashon Island is a sprawling, lightly populated island only accessible via water. For boaters, a long winding bay called Quartermaster Harbor beckons from the south end of the island. There is a lot of space to drop the hook and a marina with guest moorage. There are hiking trails at Burton Acres Park and a teeny tiny downtown drag tucked among lavender farms. It can be very quiet back there—just what a certain boater might be looking for after the city hustle and bustle. I have also heard that during crabbing season this is a great spot but watch out for all the trap buoys when you are coming in.
Thea Foss Waterway and Greater Tacoma
All of the South Sound tightens into a bottleneck known as the Tacoma Narrows—a gateway to the real treasure trove of quiet coves and twisty inlets of these waters. Crossing the narrows from above is the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, formerly the collapsed “Galloping Gertie” of history infamy, that’s the closest thing we have to a Golden Gate Bridge welcome around here. One mention about the Tacoma Narrows is to be mindful of the tides that can rip through there in excess of seven knots.
North of the Narrows is the metropolis of Tacoma and for boaters the city’s Thea Foss Waterway. Named after a Norwegian woman whose successful business renting launches boomed into the Foss Maritime industry giant of today, the Thea Foss waterway is loaded with marinas and a waterfront with things to do. The Foss Waterway Seaport, the impressive Museum of Glass (this is the land of Chihuly after all), and LeMay – America’s Car Museum are worth visits. The Tacoma Dome, one of the largest wood dome structures in the world, sometimes pulls music headliners if you’re a good planner. There is access to public transportation near the marinas and if you are interested in history the Washington State History museum is across the street from the waterfront.
Look but Don’t Touch: McNeil Island and Squaxin Islands
Once south through the Tacoma Narrows, a boater is in South Sound proper. There are many islands to explore and inlets to bop around in, but two of the islands must be avoided for very different reasons. The first is McNeil Island, the last American island prison which closed in 2011 but remains the site of the state’s primary Special Commitment Center (SCC) which houses some very disturbed people. . For obvious reasons boats are not allowed to land there and you can feel safe knowing that none of their committed offenders has ever escaped. The other island to avoid is Squaxin Island as it is reservation land of the tribe of the same name. The tribe forbids uninvited non-tribal folks from their land and it’s best to respect their rules. But there’s nothing wrong with plying past on a boat and to me these two islands add to the mystique of a South Sound cruise.
Peace n’ Quiet, Jarrell Cove Reco
The appeal to South Sound is peace and quiet, usually within a stone’s throw from a forested island. A good spot I’ve tried for a boat overnight is Jarrell Cove on the north end of Harstine Island. There’s a small marina in there with seasonal hours and a state park with a dock complete with shore power and water. One could also drop an anchor. There are some trails nearby and the public restrooms have nice showers. Good easy paddleboarding, I saw a seal, otter, and bald eagles. If you want to get away from city life for an afternoon, the South Sound way, Jarrell Cove is a great choice.
Eats and Drinks: Gig Harbor Reco
I could go on about restaurants and bars in the urban centers of Seattle and Tacoma, but plenty of writers make careers out of that so I don’t need to trample that ground. Instead I’m going to point out Gig Harbor as the quintessential small-town foodie stop for boaters. The town is tucked into the Kitsap Peninsula on the north side of the Tacoma Narrows.
Not only is there place to drop a hook and several marinas with guest docks, but also many great boater-oriented restaurants. Tides Tavern is a local favorite that’s been around forever, think American diner-pub with excellent seafood connections and nautical knick-knacks on the wall. I tried the Tides Crab BL(A)T, a 4-oz. Dungeness crab cake mixed with panko, garlic aioli, green onion, and a cheddar jack blend with a Tides Tavern Long Ass Day Double IPA beer brewed in-house. Perfect after a sunny morning on the water. They have their own dock which restaurant patrons can use for free while dining but overnight moorage is not allowed. Note that this is a tavern so 21 and older only. If you have minors on board they are allowed on the dock and you can order take out food and eat aboard. The docks also do sometimes have a party atmosphere during busy summer times.
Gig Harbor is also home to 7 Sea Brewing, Heritage Distilling Company, and Evergreen State Brewing for aficionados of the alcohol arts. Other notable eating places on the waterfront drag is the Marketplace Grille, NetShed No. 9, and El Pueblito for Mexican. Bakeries, ice cream shops, and more abound. Cruise in, eat your heart out, walk it off, and hit up the Harbor Maritime Museum.
